“老哈瓦那已死”?末日共产主义社会里的古巴

<p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px; font-size: 19px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; background-color: #ffffff;">古巴经济扭捏地走向私有化。伴随着资本主义机制在越来越多的生活领域显现,问题也随之产生。这一点在首都哈瓦那的住宅市场上有明显表现。</p><div style="margin: 7px 0px 10px; padding: 7px 20px 10px 0px; float: none; width: 700px; clear: both; font-family: &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;; font-size: medium; background-color: #ffffff;"><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" link="/overlay/image/article/39977806/39824694" rel="nofollow" style="color: #0087eb; text-decoration-line: none; cursor: pointer;"><img src="http://www.dw.com/image/39824694_303.jpg" title="Stra&#223;enansicht Havanna Kuba mit renoviertem Haus (DW/A.Knobloch)" alt="Stra&#223;enansicht Havanna Kuba mit renoviertem Haus (DW/A.Knobloch)" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 700px; height: auto;" /></a><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; color: #888888; padding: 4px 0px; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; width: 720px;"></p></div><div style="margin-bottom: 30px; font-family: &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;; font-size: medium; background-color: #ffffff;"><div style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; color: #3e3e3e; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;;"><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">(德国之声中文网)"古巴人租房住?"古巴人马伊托(Mayito)耸起眉毛,摇摇头道:"几乎没房可租了。要是运气好,租到了,可别放手&#8230;&#8230;"。他告知,"哈瓦那已变得极其昂贵"。这位二十四、五岁左右的年轻人试图在哈瓦那的好街区Vedado找到一间转租屋。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">女演员托雷斯(Mabel Torres)也难以在她住了多年的Vedado区找到她租得起的住宅。她抱怨说,6年前,她用140古巴比索(CUC)便可月租2间一套的住宅,而现在,即使拿出300或400古巴比索也租不到了。她说,因为交不起房租,朋友们一个接一个离开了Vedado。在老城,以及情况稍好些的Centro Habana区,也可观察到这一变化。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 19px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;;">允许自负盈亏</span></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">造成这一变化的原因是多方面的。自劳尔&#183;卡斯特罗(Ra&#250;l Castro)2008年接掌政权以来,古巴处于变革之中。经济向外资开放、国有领域缩小、允许个人动议。政府还许可汽车和不动产的买卖。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">这导致房屋和住宅今天又成了投资手段和生产资料。随着中小型企业家阶层的扩展,在古巴,它们被称为<em>trabajo por cuenta propia</em><em>,</em>也就是自负盈亏阶层,众多房主、房东可以合法经营了。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">这一现象也同旅游业的火爆有关。2014年底,美国总统奥巴马和古巴领导人劳尔&#183;卡斯特罗宣布启动双边关系的谨慎接近。最晚从那时起,古巴成了世界上最受青睐的旅游目的地之一。去年,前往古巴的游客首超400万人次。目前,这个岛国有1.4万间租房,其中大部分是在哈瓦那。</p><div style="margin: 0px; padding: 7px 20px 10px 0px; float: none; width: 700px; clear: both;"><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" link="/overlay/image/article/39977806/39271595" rel="nofollow" style="color: #0087eb; text-decoration-line: none; cursor: pointer;"><img border="0" width="700" height="394" src="http://www.dw.com/image/39271595_401.jpg" title="古巴现已成为全球最受欢迎的旅游目的地之一" alt="Kuba – Tourismus – USA (picture alliance/EFE/A. Ernesto)" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 700px; height: auto;" /></a><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; color: #888888; padding: 4px 0px; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; width: 720px;">古巴现已成为全球最受欢迎的旅游目的地之一</p></div><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 19px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;;">游客带来金钱,亦带来问题</span></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">要是谈及旅游动机,去古巴的游客就会常常这么说:"在大变之前,再去古巴一次"。他们当中很少人想到,其实,他们自己就是这一变化的一个原因。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; font-size: 17px;"><br />他指出,在吸引人的城区,房子快速增值,而伴随着经济改革,房主们已可合法出售。其结果是,哈瓦那的中心市区正出现"缙绅化"现象,迄今的居民被挤走,他们所住的房子被改建成客栈;或者,他们的房子被有钱的古巴人买下,而这些人又常常得到来自境外的资金支持。</span>德国全球与地区研究所(GIGA)古巴问题专家霍夫曼(Bert Hoffmann)解释说,作为经济和社会变化的结果,古巴城市目前正经历一种它们对之几乎毫无准备的结构性转变,"对市场机制的开放,以及旅游业的跳跃式上升–尤其是通过与美国的接近–在城市的利用方面导致了广泛的变化"。他指出,城市的"缙绅化"(一个社区原本聚集着低收入人群,到重建后低价、租金上升,收入较高人群迁人,取代原有低收入者)日益明显,"某些建筑或住宅得到费用不菲的维修,改建成餐馆或酒吧,吸引游客,与此同时,常常就在左邻右舍,很多年久失修的房屋则如江河日下,摇摇欲坠"。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 19px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;;">"老哈瓦那已经死亡"</span></p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">这一发展尤其让哈瓦那老城蒙受重创。哈瓦那湾眼下已基本成为旅游港。每周最多会有3艘游轮抵驶该港,每艘船上所载的数千游客潮水般涌入本就人满为患的哈瓦那老城。霍夫曼指出,2016年夏,一艘大游轮首次抵港,让人品尝到被某些人称为"威尼斯化"的初始味道。他担心:"要是哈瓦那变本加厉,变为游客磁石,甚或游轮目的地,则这一转变也将导致文化认同和这一城市的生活感觉的变化"。</p><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;">在某些人眼里,这已经是现实。一名企业家就说道,"哈瓦那老城已经死了"。他每天都在亲身体验着相关的变化。不过,他不愿透露自己的名字。他说,他有这样的感觉,那就是,所有那些摊主、叫卖人和侍者都是每天早上被有意拉到那里去,以营造背景,迎接游客,"晚上10点钟一过,街上就没有什么动静了"。他说,一切都在飞速改变,这使他不寒而栗。</p><div style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;;"><div style="width: 720px; float: left;"><div data-id="36567835" data-title="卡斯特罗的遗产:革命的废墟" data-date="20161129" style="float: left; width: 700px; height: auto; margin: 0px 0px 30px; background-color: #000000; position: static !important;"><ul style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; list-style: none inside; overflow: hidden; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; position: relative; width: 700px; height: 561.42px;"><li style="background-image: url(&quot;../cssi/list-blip.png&quot;); background-position: 1px 10px; background-size: initial; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; min-height: 544px; display: block; top: 0px; left: 0px; z-index: 10;"><div style="float: left; position: relative; width: 700px; height: 394px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; background-color: #111111; clear: both; top: 0px; left: 0px; z-index: 10; cursor: pointer;"><img src="http://www.dw.com/image/36535270_303.jpg" title="Kuba Reaktionen Tod Fidel Castro (Getty Images/AFP/Y. Lage)" alt="Kuba Reaktionen Tod Fidel Castro (Getty Images/AFP/Y. Lage)" style="width: 700px;" /></div><div style="position: relative; left: 0px; bottom: 0px; z-index: 11; width: 700px; margin: 0px; padding: 15px; box-sizing: border-box; float: left; height: auto; min-height: 150px;"><div></div><h4>卡斯特罗的遗产:革命的废墟</h4><h2>平静的海滨大道Malec&#243;n</h2><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; color: #bbbbbb; font-size: 16px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; width: auto;">11月25日临近午夜时分,古巴领导人劳尔&#183;卡斯特罗在国家电视台宣布了其兄长菲德尔&#183;卡斯特罗的死讯。哈瓦那的酒吧之后纷纷关门,海滨大道Malec&#243;n聚集的人比平时更多。一些人又唱又跳,另一些人则充满忧伤。还有的人无动于衷,因为他们觉得,即便卡斯特罗不在了,古巴也不会发生巨变。</p></div></li></ul><br /><div style="background-image: initial; background-position: initial; background-size: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; height: 40px;"><div style="position: relative; z-index: 100; left: 6px; bottom: 0px; width: 678.991px; overflow: hidden;"><div style="float: right;"><a rel="nofollow" style="color: #888888; 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line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">3</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p3" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">4</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p4" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">5</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p5" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">6</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p6" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">7</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p7" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">8</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p8" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">9</a><a href="http://www.dw.com/zh/%E8%80%81%E5%93%88%E7%93%A6%E9%82%A3%E5%B7%B2%E6%AD%BB%E6%9C%AB%E6%97%A5%E5%85%B1%E4%BA%A7%E4%B8%BB%E4%B9%89%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E9%87%8C%E7%9A%84%E5%8F%A4%E5%B7%B4/a-39977806?&amp;zhongwen=simp#" id="p9" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; padding: 4px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;, sans-serif;">10</a></span></div></div></div></div></div><p style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; font-size: 17px; line-height: 25px; font-family: &quot;MS Song&quot;, &quot;MS Hei&quot;; padding: 0px 40px 12px 0px;"><br /></p></div></div>


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